Few designers can turn tangerine-sized balls of wool into sophisticated and sculptural design features. Anuschka Hoevener can. And instead of being weighed down by whimsical eccentricity, her intellectual yet feminine womenswear is mature, light and sensual. Hoevener, who was trained in New York, London and Halle before opening her showroom in Berlin in 2004, creates timeless chic with steamlined yet playful pieces in wool, silk and classic fabrics. Buttressed and framed by beautiful pleats, creases and other evidence of superior craftsmanship, the woollen balls, tassels or other details that would appear frivolous from other designers become distinctive and dignified under Hoevener's masterful hand.

Ana Finel Honigman